On things to read - October 2024

Interesting articles from the past month.

Bonne lecture !

“Is a $910 Fleece Actually Worth It?” in The New York Times

(« Camping’s favorite material gets a luxury overhaul »)

“How Hedi Slimane Changed Fashion” in The New York Times

(« He has just left his fourth job at a big brand. Maybe it’s time he start one of his own. Would you buy that ? »)

“Inside On: A Year With the World’s Fastest Growing Sportswear Brand” in Esquire

(« How an insurgent Swiss running-shoe manufacturer took on the megabrands - and won »)

“The Very British Origins of the Viral New Balance 1906L Loafer” in Esquire

(« The story of the hybrid shoe of the season, as told by its creators »)

“Les constellations de Jil Sander” in Le Monde

(« La styliste allemande déplie dans un livre très visuel cinquante ans de carrière. La vision captivante de l’esprit d’une créatrice obsédée par l’épure, voire le néant. »)

“’I’m looking for a man in finance… and a gilet’: the rise of banker bro fashion” in The Guardian

(« Return of hit TV series Industry brings sleeveless garment back into the spotlight and may even have boosted sales »)

“Want to banish men from your life? These repellent perfumes are for you” in Dazed

(« The internet is filled with advice about the best fragrances to attract a partner, but what if you don’t wany anyone near you? Bee Beardsworth investigates perfumes to repel male attention - and everyone else’s »)

“Designer watch? I’ll keep my £25 Casio, thanks” in Financial Times

(« Fifty years young, the Japanese digital watch is as desirable as ever, says a superfan »)

“Style Advice Doesn’t Matter Anymore” in GQ

(« Asking others how to look better will only get you so far. The only way to build real personal style is to dress yourself and make mistakes, GQ’s Noah Johnson writes. »)

“The Rise of Malin + Goetz: A Cult Grooming Brand Turns 20” in Esquire

(« We spoke to co-founders Matthew Malin and Andrew Goetz about their design-driven skincare empire »)

“Male midlife makeovers steal the spotlight at Paris womenswear shows” in The Guardian

(« Fashion rebrands for Daniel Craig in haphazard jumper and Willem Dafoe on the Miu Miu catwalk »)

“Serial returners send back £6.6bn of online purchases a year in UK, report finds” in The Guardian

(« Industry bodies say over-ordering is eroding profitability as big sellers clamp down on practice »)

“Inside the last working garment factory in Manchester” in The Telegraph

(« British workers past and present are at the heart of a collection inspired by artist LS Lowry »)

“Giorgio Armani is eternal, for better and worse (mostly better)” in The Washington Post

(« His clothes haven’t changed in 40 years, but a rare New York show reminds that he invented modern fashion. »)

“Hats That Dior, Princess Diana, and Rugby Players Could All Agree On” in The Cut

(« A new exhibition in Paris showcases the art and magic of milliner Stephen Jones »)

“Jonathan Anderson Only Wants to Be the World’s Best Fashion Designer” in The New York Times

(« No other fashion designer today blurs the lines between the avant-garde and the commercial as imaginatively, or ruthlessly, as Jonathan Anderson, the creative director of Loewe. »)

“The world’s best vintage fashion dealers” in HTSI

(« An A-Z of the accounts, showrooms and vendors who’ll make the hunt that much easier »)

“The Next Wave of Japanese Menswear Is Here - These Are the Brands to Know” in GQ

(« Allow GQ’s Noah Johnson to introduce you to A.Presse, Setinn, and the new class of labels shaping the future of men’s fashion. »)

“Hello Kitty Forever : Celebrating 50 Years of an Icon” in HIGHSNOBIETY

(« Hello Kitty is small. So small, in fact, that her parent company, Sanrio, measures Kitty’s height in apples: She is five apples tall. How cute! That’s Hello Kitty in a nutshell, a cute cat. Actually, not quite. »)

“The hard truth about journalism, from Eugene Rabkin” in NSS Magazine

(« The founder of StyleZeitgeist spills the tea »)

“Japanese jeans with lifetime warranty crafted ‘like making a kimono’ in denim mecca Kojima” in South China Morning Post

(« Hand-dyed denim and vintage machines are used to make jeans that sell for up to US$1,400 a pair in town where even the roads are denim blue »)

“A New Book Scoured 170,000 Forgotten Photos to Create an Unseen History of Denim” in Esquire

(« Stylists, clear your mood boards »)

“Zuckerberg 2.0: why has Meta boss ditched drab hoodies in jazzy makeover?” in The Guardian

(« Get ready for a silk shirt undone to the navel, necklaces and big T-shirts, all aimed at humanising Meta’s founder »)

“The most powerful fashion designer you don’t know about” in The Washington Post

(« Chitose Abe doesn’t dress celebrities. But the CEO and owner of Sacai wields rare influence with a serene fusion of street and salon. »)

“Miu Mules: New Balance x Miu Miu just dropped fashion’s next divisive shoe” in DAZED

(« Launched as part of the Italian brand’s holiday collection, the new sneaker-clog hybrid joins the ever-growing canon of ugly fashion shoes »)

“Can the Row Keep Its Cool?” in The New York Times

(« The luxury brand has maintained its allure through an air of exclusivity. Associations with discount chains and reality stars have broadened its reach. »)

“He Knows What Men Want (to Buy)” in The New York Times

(« Ven. Space, an in-person-only boutique in Brooklyn, can’t seem to keep the clothes on the racks. »)

“How a Tiny ’90s Magazine Helped Define Asian American Style” in GQ

(« With a new retrospective book landing this week, Giant Robot cofounder Eric Nakamura looks back on his cult publication’s outsized influence. »)

“Friends over money: inside the world of Verdy” in SSENSE

(« The Wasted Youth and Girls Don’t Cry designer reflects on his magazine kid era and the importance of working with friends. »)

“Giorgio Armani at 90: ‘Work Is the Best Medicine’” in The Wall Street Journal

(« After nearly 50 years in fashion, the legendary designer shows no signs of slowing down, with a blowout runway show in New York City and a new 12-floor building on Madison Avenue »)